Though Kazaks are Muslim (Sunni) they are not, by and large, strictly
so, and Islam is not a major political force. Reasons for this include
the Kazakstan's location on the fringe of the Muslim world, and
their traditionally nomadic lifestyle, unsuited to central religious
authority. Kazak women appear Central Asia's most confident and
least restricted, despite the lingering custom of wife-stealing,
whereby a man may simply kidnap a woman he wants to marry (often
with some collusion, it must be said), leaving her parents with
no option but to negotiate the bride-price.
Many Kazaks maintain a seminomadic existence, moving with herds,
flocks and yurts from their collective farms to summer pastures
every year. An affinity with the horse is shown in sports like kökpar,
the wild free-for-all ancestor of polo (with a headless goat's carcass
instead of a ball) and qyz quu, a boy-girl horse chase - if a boy
catches a girl he kisses her, if a girl catches a boy she beats
him with her riding whip, all the while both of them riding hell
for leather.
Much Kazak food resembles that of the Middle East or the Mediterranean
in its use of rice, savoury seasonings, vegetables and legumes,
yoghurt and grilled meats. Other dishes have developed from the
subsistence diet of the nomads - mainly mutton (including entrails),
milk products and bread - whereas in the heavily Russian-populated
cities of northern Kazakstan, the dominant cuisine is Russian. Rural
Kazaks make good qazy, smoked horsemeat sausage sometimes served
sliced with cold noodles. If that sounds a bit hardcore, look out
for a sweet plov (pilaf) made with dried apricots, raisins and prunes
or Kazak apples which are famous throughout Central Asia (Almaty
literally means 'father of apples').
Kazakstan is a Turkic language written in a 42-letter version of
the Cyrillic alphabet. At least as many people in Kazakstan speak
Russian as Kazak; Kazakstan is the official state language but Russian
is the 'language of inter-ethnic communication.
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